Girls between the ages of 7 and 18 are using an average of six different skincare products, according to a new study by Northwestern Medicine. The study highlights potential risks associated with teen skincare routines popularized on TikTok. These routines, which can include more than a dozen products, often target younger consumers and pose a high risk of skin irritation and allergies.
The findings, set to be published in the journal Pediatrics on June 9, reveal that these skincare regimens cost an average of $168 per month. Despite the financial investment, only 26% of daytime routines incorporate sunscreen, which is crucial for skin protection.
Dr. Molly Hales, a postdoctoral research fellow at Northwestern University Feinberg School of Medicine, noted that "the high risk of irritation came from both using multiple active ingredients at the same time" and repeated use across various products. An example from the study showed a content creator applying ten products in six minutes, resulting in visible skin reactions.
Senior author Dr. Tara Lagu observed that some videos "emphasized lighter, brighter skin," indicating racial undertones and associations with consumerism. The study authors argue these videos offer little benefit to their young audience and present challenges for parents trying to monitor content.
Dr. Hales expressed concern about the pressure these routines place on young girls: "We're setting a very high standard for these girls." She added that while skincare is marketed as health-focused, it intertwines with ideals of beauty and thinness.
To conduct the study, researchers created TikTok accounts posing as 13-year-olds to compile data from 100 unique videos. They analyzed demographics, product types, costs, and ingredients' potential to cause allergic contact dermatitis.
The research was funded by the National Institute of Arthritis and Musculoskeletal and Skin Diseases (grant number 5T32AR060710-11). Other contributors include Drs. Amy Paller and Walter Liszewski, along with medical student Sarah Rigali.